By Anthony Brancaleone
Nestled snuggly beneath the Greektown Casino, right smack dab in the middle of Greektown itself, sits a classic in Detroit food culture and fiery good times, the Pegasus Taverna.
The Pegasus remains much as it did back in the days of Trapper’s Alley, fun and boisterous, with a laid-back romanticism common among Greeks, fine food and good living. The addition of an enticing cheese and sweet counter, providing customers with a second chance to take home baklava or rice pudding, works well alongside the open kitchen where one may watch beef and lamb roast slowly over an open flame.
Widely considered the finest Greek restaurant in town, The Metropolitan sent it’s very own official “Greek Food Taster”, Pamela Nikolopoulas, on assignment to see if we could substantiate the claims.
What we discovered is that even after 24 years of the Pegasus shouting “Opa!” – every time it serves Saganaki ($6) – it is still possible to frighten an authentic Greek with an appetizer of flaming cheese (as seen pictured alongside this article). No worries, we soon calmed the nerves of Ms. Nikolopoulas with a pair of Pina Coladas.
Our second starter, Scordalia ($5.75), was garlicky and satisfying when sopped up with thick slices of fresh Greek bread, but one word of warning; don’t fill up on dough when dinner is on the way.
The Veal Lemonato ($18.95) was sautéed in a mixture of lemon and oregano and served with peas and potatoes. Delicious. An order of the Lamb Shank ($15.95) – one of the specials of the evening – proved to be tender, flavorful – bone still in – and literally rested off the plate. Finally, a traditional Greek dish of Pastitsio, macaroni mixed with spiced ground beef, grated cheese and Bechamel sauce ($12.95). Comforting.
According to our official “Greek Food Taster”, our meal was spot on and our whole evening delightful. Ms. Nikolopoulas enjoyed the Lemonato, appreciated the chiseled good looks of our distinguished server, and had an explanation regarding her fear of pyrotechnics; “I’m half Scottish”, she said.
Pegasus Taverna, 558 Monroe Street Detroit Mi. 48226 313. 964. 6800 | www.pegasusdetroit.com