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A stay in Corktown, named for Ireland’s County Cork by immigrants who escaped the Great Famine during the 19th century, could easily be spent enjoying historic red brick streets and architectural views of Federal-style buildings and Victorian townhouses. But, “Detroit’s Oldest Neighborhood” is more than just tales of yore, incorporating layers of cultural and commercial space into a revitalization that really began in the early 2000s.

Locals will remember the 2005 launch of Slows Bar B-Q, which invited customers to dine on smoked meats and southern sides in the shadow of an abandoned Michigan Central Station. Other entrepreneurs soon followed – McShane’s Irish Pub & Whiskey Bar, Motor City Wine Bar, Sugar House, Astro Coffee (defunct), and the Mercury Burger Bar – all largely supported by Detroit’s creative class and metropolitan foodies.

After Ford Motor Company purchased the iconic train station in 2018, however, Corktown has experienced a surge of activity, expanding its footprint with new hotels and living spaces, restaurants and walkways, and a tech hub designed to (once again) make Corktown one of the city’s most desirable places.

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Where To Stay

One recent development is The Godfrey Hotel Detroit, a part of the Curio collection by Hilton. Billed as a luxury lifestyle hotel, The Godfrey sits on Michigan Avenue in the heart of Corktown. Designed by Elkus Manfredi Architects and Neumann/Smith Architecture, The Godfrey has done well to blend streamlined urban elegance alongside its historic surroundings. Reflecting the geometry and palimpsest of Michigan Avenue, the hotel engages visitors with a heightened sense of luxury loft living. Its lobby entrance and ground floor glass walls leave one with a feeling of being genuinely embedded within the community.

Feeling Presidential?

 

GM, Aaron Black, a native of Montreal, Canada, migrated from the Four Seasons organization to The Godfrey with designs on being an integral part of Corktown’s transformation. He credits views from the hotel’s rooftop lounge, sophisticated interiors, and the farm-to-table food program at Hamilton’s, helmed by Chef Nyle Flynn, as top reasons to consider The Godfrey during your stay.

Named for Hamilton Carhartt, founder of the workwear brand, who established a factory on the site now inhabited by The Godfrey, the restaurant sits at street level with views of Nemo’s – an OG sports bar dating back to 1965, witness to both the Tigers 1968 and ’84 World Series (which, took place a block west in old Tiger Stadium) and Ottava Via; a rustic Italian eatery that was part of Corktown’s early revival. Hamilton’s hosts a monthly ‘Neighborhood Social Club’ in its bar where residents, small businesses owners and the curious network over cocktails.

Century old brick meets decades old pavement outside Ottava Via.

Where To Eat

Travelers will argue there is nothing like Aperitivo in Rome. And, who can blame them? Hanging with friends or significant others while enjoying wine, charcuterie, or (maybe) a sweet is a pleasurable experience. Ottava Via, a Corktown favorite since 2013, offers indoor or al fresco dining and a delightful menu of Small Plates including, Roasted Garlic & Goat Cheese, Calamari, Sausage & Peppers and, our favorite, Arancini ( fried rice balls stuffed with Prosciutto and Tallegio Cheese). Taken with an Aperol Spritzer (for the lady) and an 8th Street Negroni (for the would-be gentleman) and there could be an argument for this little Italian oasis. The dinner menu offers a number of pizzas, pasta dishes, and hot entrees – may we suggest the Farmhouse Chicken (dressed with squash and zucchini noodles, red onion and cherry tomatoes). Oh, and look for the game of Bocce in the courtyard.

Serving Detroit-style noodles since 2015, Chef / Owner, Michael Ransom and his crew at IMA earned a 2023 James Beard Nomination for Best Restaurant in the Great Lakes Region. Through summer, IMA offers a nearly unreal Happy Hour, M-F, 3-6pm., beginning with $5 Sapporo drafts, House Sake, and select handcraft cocktails. Accompanied by Robata Grill Skewers, Sushi Hand Rolls, and Small Plates, the flavors will make you smile. May we suggest a bowl of Ramen? Spicy Tori, to be exact, but the choice is, of course, all yours. All dishes come artfully plated to compliment IMA’s architecture and decor. Utilizing reclaimed wood in its herringbone ceilings, salvaged gymnasium flooring, and a spinning disco ball in the main dining room, little wonder locals favor this unique Corktown experience.

It’s been said by those more knowledgable than me that one should not eat at the hotel restaurant. But, those restaurants are not Hamilton’s and the menu not designed by chefs like Nyle Flynn. Rooted in Classic American Fare, Chef Flynn puts a very crisp, yet comforting, spin on dishes you thought you knew –  Everything Buttermilk Biscuits w/ Umami Butter (Jewish bagel meets southern Appalachian biscuits, finished with savory Japanese butter). Wedge Cobb Salad, with avocado ranch, bacon, bleu cheese, tomato, and red onion (an explosion of flavor). And, North Atlantic Cod ‘Fish + Chips’, with mushy peas, malt vinegar, and potato pave. While we could go on about the spicy, thin-n-crisp batter supporting a meaty fish, it was the ‘Chips’ that left us wondering. “Thinly sliced, soaked 24 hours in heavy cream, then pressed before hitting the fryer,” explained our waiter. For dessert, Key Lime Pie, with lavender graham, honey whipped cream, and blueberry compote; served in the shape of half moons.

Where To Drink

Whether or not you’re a sports fan, Nemo’s Bar is a must stop for anyone interested in getting closer to the soul of Corktown. A pint of ale, shot of Irish whiskey, or a Moscow Mule, while seated at the Old School wooden bar, complete with brass foot rail, is a splendid way to pass the time. Listen closely, and you’ll hear talk of Tigers, Redwings and how the Lion’s are going to win the Super Bowl! Stay a little longer and you might hear stories about the neighborhood. Engage in conversation, ask a few questions, and you’ll soon learn about Corktown’s on-going fight to #savethebricks along Michigan Avenue – a distinguishing feature that maintains community history.

Way back in the way back whens, Motor City Wine Bar sat above Foran’s Grand Trunk Pub, in downtown Detroit. During the Great Recession, it moved to the more spacious and then desolate plot of land where it now sits, popping corks and serving sides, with live jazz inside and the areas finest DJs out (on the patio). It was underground and off the beaten path. Fast forward and the town seems to have grown up around this joint. But, that hasn’t changed what MCWB is all about – wine, music, and Detroit vibes. Viva La Resistance!

LJ’s Sweetheart Bar is a straight up, Detroit dive-original, complete with long, narrow bar, vintage, faux wood paneling, an old pool table, and a tiny room in back reserved solely for the clandestine. The mixed clientele includes old-timers, area musicians, residents, socialites and those wise enough to wander through its front door. A great place for a short beer and Jamesons when you’re waiting to be seated at Slow’s Bar B-Q. While you’re on the block that marks the origins of Corktown’s revitalization, be sure to visit Sugar House for a craft cocktail program that has been evolving seasonally since 2011. It seems silly to suggest a drink from the menu, as the bar is widely known for its depth and variety, but I have never gone wrong with an Old Fashioned. Interiors hold rich, dark, woods and warm lighting, born from an era in Detroit that promoted refurbishment, which seems even more relevant now as it did over a decade ago. Bartenders are professional, cocktails legit, often served alongside live music.

Detroiters enjoy a day of cycling near Michigan Central.

And, Other Things To Do

In the morning, begin at James Oliver Coffee with a Country French blend and maybe a pastry. The cafe is a cozy spot to organize a walking tour. Traverse the neighborhood between Michigan Avenue and Porter Street, bordered by Sixth St. and Trumbull. Listed on the National Registry of Historic Places, the original homes in Corktown date back to 1840 but find themselves increasingly up against new developments.

(far left) Victorian era home against rear view of The Godfrey. (center left) The Ketelhut House. (center right) new contemporary lofts in the historic district. (far right) A vintage Ford pick up matches the color of its home.

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There are a number of gathering spots to discover along your way for quick refreshment including, Mudgies Deli. Founded in 2008, this local haven provides hearty breakfast items, sandwiches, wine and drinks in a casually setting. And, their patio is perfect for day drinking. 2024 James Beard Finalist, Folk has been adding flavor to the community since 2018; featuring all day brunch, wine, and other specialty provisions. It is not unusual to join conversation with locals seated outside; much of it Detroit-centric but, hey, you could have always gone elsewhere.

Since you’ve come this far, you might as well have a last sip of wine before hiking all the way to Michigan Central – “Epicenter of Innovation”. After decades of abandonment, Ford Motor Company invested $950M into restoring this 1913 architectural treasure. And, she is a beaut! Open tours run through September 2024 before the building begins filling with retail, cultural installations, and other tenants.

Built into the cost is a 30 acre ecosystem, said to include some of the brightest minds from Detroit and around the world, dedicated to “advancing technologies and programs that address some of the most pressing challenges facing humanity today”.

Let’s hope they figure out how to Save the Bricks …

Founded in Detroit, the Vernors sign is proudly maintained on the brick wall of FOLK, 1701 Bagely.

 

Photography | Anthony Brancaleone

Editor’s Note: We chose our locations because we enjoy all of them; not because we dislike others. We could have continued but, sadly our budget ran out. If there comes a part II, we are confident it will be easily filled with entirely different offerings. 

Be well.